- Riding High In Vietnam

Riding a bike in one of the most beautiful areas on the planet needn't cost the earth.
"You don't need a bike like that," said Tho when I try to jump on a Minsk motorcycle standing in the corner as I intended to choose to go two-up touring in the mountains. Take the Honda. It may not be cheaper in rent but fuel and you'll find it's all you need."
He pointed towards a Vietnamese-built, 125cc single-cylinder scooter. He must have been joking!
"Take it for a spin around the block and see what you think," he insisted.
I was pleasantly surprised. The engine was fairly smooth and adequate punchy when needed, with a solid 'blat' when I opened the throttle and a serious rumble on the overrun. It kept well ahead of the traffic.
Tho was the Guide of Niche Travel, one of the Tour Operator who organize bike trip in Vietnam. The aforementioned block located in the city centre with “multi lane” street- that I called for jammed traffic with thousand of motorcycles try to go at the same time - a surprisingly effective system given the chaotic traffic.

Jan and I had arrived the week before for a three-week stay with friends, a European couple who work for a world hotel group and recommended me for the trip. A large number of foreign expats live Hanoi who sometimes come together and organize to the hinder paths, most of them never been reached by tourists
We spent the first week sampling delicious Vietnamese Food, visiting the cafes, and doing a couple of day tours in Hanoi and out of the city on our Honda.
Hanoi is quite ancient city with tree-line boulevards and tranquil lakes that you can find yourself in numerous cafes around. Don’t be surprise that you can’t order the capuchino as they have none, but a cup of CAFÉ SỮA ĐÁ’ , ice - coffee served with condensed milk would go well with the steamy hot weather.
I found out it was quite handy with our Honda as we can reach any part of the city in chaos traffic. It also liberates us from the hassling of ‘ XE OM’ – motorbike taxi- everytime we went out

Maichau trip

Maichau trip provided a taste of the brilliant scenery and magic motorcycling to be had in northern Vietnam. So, Jan and I packed a bag, strapped it to the luggage rack that I asked Tho to fit to the Honda, and set off on a four-day trip towards the Laos border north-west of Hanoi.

The road wound its way through the mountains in an endless series of switchbacks which the Honda handled easily. I was glad I hadn't chosen a Minsk due to being a 2-stroke engine bike with low torque - a Honda with single cylinder engine revved up nicely along the hilly road, with more torque available when you needed. Don’t expect the speed machine here as you can roll along 50-60 km/h in its happy zone. Along the way we met a couple of Belgians who had rented the Minsk with burnt out clutch, the simple problems when you played too much with the gear to struggle to go up hill. Yet they couldn't understand why I was so happy with the little Honda.

We spent the first night in Lac village in the skirt of Maichau town, surrounded by rice terraces and mist- top mountain ridges, and liked it so much we stayed another night. The front brake pads were looking a bit worn so I had them replaced at a local bike shop. The retaining pins had seized, and the mechanic spent two hours drilling them out and fitting new pads with tailor-made pins before presenting me with a bill for $6.00
Our next destination was Muong Lat, a town near the Laos border in an area famous for its deep jungle and unsealed road. There were far fewer tourists here than in Lac, and we would have stayed longer if we'd had the time.
From here we gradually made our way back to Maichau Town

Halong Bay Cruise

Back in Hanoi we decided to undertake another trip, this time towards Halong Bay, the legendary world heritage in the north-east of the city. This’s actually a busy tourist route. We took the break in Dong Trieu where all the ceramics were made. We spotted out many girls were preparing cups and saucers for the kilts nearby . I picked up some coffee mugs as souvenir from Vietnam for my office as we waved goodbye to Dong Trieu

The captain of our boat in Halong was greeting us with smile as we boarded. He gently easy the boat out and sail toward Ba Ham island. I had a time to notice most the boat in Halong built with the same design. Ours had 4 well equipped cabin underneath, kitchen and lounge in the up stair and top deck for sun bake and viewing. That’s all bad at all for our cruise in Halong !!!

Our lunch was being prepared with fresh catch of the day and surely with authentic Vietnamese cooking.
After lunch we stopped for a visit in a massive cave, which was created by water weathering down limestone mountain. And I believe there will be more awaiting caves around.
Halong bay cover 1660 km2 with more than 3000 islets dotted on the sea. From far away, it look like a range of mountain , but when you are approaching it opens out numerous water ways, channeling though rock cliff raising from the sea. The water was tranquil and clear, suitable for any water activity as swimming or kayaking in halong

Summing up.

Northern Vietnam blew us away. Mai Chau is very different to the busy and vibrant of Hanoi, and the general atmosphere is far more pleasant than the tourist ghettos in the south of the country Hochiminh City. Hoi An anyone?. The air is clearer, the roads and route signs are good, and the traffic, though chaotic at times, seems to flow quite smoothly if you watch other road users and don't fret about rules. Indeed, the people struck us as extremely friendly, and we never got ripped off or felt threatened. Just good luck? Perhaps.
- Petrol costs less than as in Australia. Eating is cheap (try $15 for several courses for two, in good restaurants), as is accommodation in Hanoi ($30 for a decent room with ensuite).
- Bike rent in Hanoi start at about $15.00 a day for a 100cc or 125cc step-through and go up to $30 a day for a trail bike Honda Baja 250cc.
I've ridden motorcycles in quite a few countries around the world, and I'd have to say northern Vietnam certainly ranks near the top for sheer enjoyment.
So, by all means go and see for yourself. Flights from Australia to Vietnam more than affordable these days (around $1000 return with taxes).
Just don't bring duty-free booze from home - due to the no-liquids security policy, we had to surrender ours at the airport before they let us onto our connecting flight!

FAST FACTS

- Website run by NICHE TRAVEL VIETNAM, the company founded by ex-tour leaders. The best source of information for motorbiking Vietnam.
- Lonely Planet Vietnam - the usual extensive information on things to see and do and places to stay and eat, as well as history, culture and other useful stuff.
- February to April is the best time to travel to Vietnam as the weather is dry and the coolest time of year, most pleasant for touring. Other times can be okay too, though August and September are best avoided (very hot and wet).